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Consuming Impulse: The Absu Burger

For almost 20 years, Absu has put out albums that resemble ancient documents that transport us to the worlds of Sumerian, Mesopotamian, and Celtic mythology. The fact that the band began in Plano, TX attests to the capability of the United States to bring forth some of the most thematically exciting and original-sounding black metal ever. Crafting a burger that lives up to the Absu name is quite a task, but Kuma’s Corner is successful at it.

The Absu burger is a cultural exchange of American and Mexican flavors. The colors are a rich saturation of shades of green, similar to the Tara and self-titled albums. The pretzel bun and 10 oz. beef patty are the foundation for a temple of complex flavors. Pepperjack cheese provides a soft carpet of gooeyness over a thin layer of tomatillo salsa. The tomatillo salsa could benefit from more flavor, but the avocado/onion relish more than compensates for that. The avocados, which complement the chopped onions well, are plump and fresh. A liberal sprinkling of crumbled queso fresco helps prepare the tongue for a triumvirate of deep fried chiles comprised of habanero, jalapeño, and fresno peppers. Deep-frying these peppers magnifies the spiciness a few notches. These are no pillars of mercy for those who cannot handle spicy food. I would’ve preferred to pair this burger with Mexican hot chocolate, but the Left Hand Brewing Milk Stout proved to be a worthy companion. The twists and turns within the palate from this burger are like Proscriptor McGovern’s vocal-and-drum attack.

Absu will be touring next February with Norwegian blizzard beasts Immortal. Until then, this burger should temper the craving for black thrashing fire in the sub-zero temperatures of the Midwestern winter.

— Carmelo Española

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“Pillars of Mercy”

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Carm occasionally sacrifices his arteries for the sake of this column.

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