Consuming Impulse: The Insect Warfare Burger

Grindcore never runs out of subject matter for its vitriolic rage. Clueless neo-conservative teabaggers screaming at god-knows-what, BP continuing to spew oily death-cum onto the Gulf of Mexico, and the rise of pseudo-patriotic racism in Arizona are mere pictures of how fucked up the country is. During their short-lived existence, Insect Warfare from Houston, TX tackled similar topics with grinding madness that ripped like a hurricane through the eardrums. I was fortunate to witness their last official show at Dude Fest in the summer of 2008. (Ed. note: They actually reformed for a short tour in 2009.) No talk, no bullshit – everything was 100% grindcore to the bitter end.

Originally introduced as a burger of the month in 2008 and now a part of the recently revamped menu, the Insect Warfare burger from Kuma’s Corner is far from bitter. An intriguingly colorful flotilla of Southwestern ingredients pays tribute to the band’s Texas roots. Panko-crusted goat cheese covers a bacon-roasted corn and green chili medallion like a volcano about to unleash hot lava. There is a noticeable interplay between the crunchiness of the outside and the gooeyness of the inside. Paprika crème fraiche covers the burger like a gentle stream of milky goodness. It has a zing that’s comparable to sour cream. The topping of roasted corn, cilantro, and green chili salsa reminds me of the roasted corn in a cup that you can buy from elote carts in Chicago. This aesthetic is further enhanced by a generous sprinkling of paprika over the corn and salsa. The beef patty takes a supporting role for this burger. It’s the special components that truly stand out in the palate.

This massive slab of grindcore-inspired meatiness can result in oxygen corrosion within the arteries. You have been warned.

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Carm occasionally sacrifices his arteries for the sake of this column.